Undoubtedly Himachal Pradesh has been the best ever state I visited in all the 28 states of India. The magical landscapes, humble people, the lovely mountains, the beautiful weather and what not. Spiti and Kinnaur Valley are the most special things which adds immense value to the tourism of Himachal Pradesh.

Introduction

As you’ll know Spiti and Kinnaur Valley are the remotest areas of Himachal Pradesh due to irregular landslides, heavy snowfall, road conditions and transportation. That’s the reason why most tourists planning to visit here give up, thinking about the expenses of private taxis or rental vehicles.

Here I am with a very good news that the entire Spiti and Kinnaur Valley can be covered completely only with HRTC buses ( Govt buses operated by Himachal Pradesh Transport Corporation) at a very low cost, best comfort for the price, the safest and the most reliable option.

Things to keep in mind – Spiti and Kinnaur trip with HRTC.

• Make sure you confirm the status of the bus before planning the trip as due to landslides or other issues buses may not be operated.
• Only a few buses can be booked online, majorly the ones operated from far distances like Delhi, Haridwar, Chandigarh, Mandi. Check here for booking.
• Female travelers have some concession in the bus fare, making your travel much cheaper.
• Buses are very well maintained and clean as well.
• Proper rest breaks are given in the entire journey at good places.
• If you’re lucky, grab a seat right next to the driver to get the best views of the journey. Trust me, it’s completely worth it
• As there are very few buses in some areas (Ex Shimla – Kaza), they get crowded sometimes. Though all buses can’t be booked online, they can be booked from the ticket counter of the departing bus stand on the previous day of the journey.
• Most of the buses in the entire Spiti Valley are operated by Reckong Peo depot,  which has the best staff and the fleet is very well maintained. 
• As there are limited buses in Spiti and Kinnaur Valley, no matter wherever you request the bus to stop, they stop easily. So you need not move to the bus stand to take a bus.
• Spiti trip from Kinnaur is much recommended than from Manali side as you gradually gain altitude thereby no risk of altitude sickness.

Shimla – Bus Schedule

Trust me, the Delhi-Reckong Peo bus is the best one I’ve ever seen. The ambient lightings, comfortable seats, lovely decoration makes it very interesting.

Shimla to Kaza

Shimla – Reckong Peo – Kaza (6:30 AM)

This is a direct bus service between Shimla to Kaza. The bus reaches Reckong Peo by evening and halts there at night. The next morning it continues the journey as Reckong Peo – Kaza. Remember you have to take 2 separate tickets for the entire journey. Also there are many hotels available near Reckong Peo bus stand to stay at night (at your own expenses).

Private Buses

Apart from this even private buses operate frequently mostly in the morning times until Peo. You can visit the Shimla ISBT and enquire there. But private buses don’t operate beyond Reckong Peo. So only HRTC buses go until Kaza.

Night Bus Service in Spiti

Also very few night buses run on the Shimla – Peo route and nowhere else in Spiti Valley after Peo the buses operate at night. It is recommended to take these journeys in the daytime itself to enjoy the lovely views on the Journey.

Rampur – Bus Schedule

This is a major town between Shimla to Reckong Peo. Many buses even start from here. Private buses are frequently available between Shimla to Rampur.

Rampur – Kaza

Rampur – Reckong Peo – Kaza (12:30 AM)

This bus reaches Reckong Peo at 9 AM and reaches Kaza by evening 5:30. This travels through Pooh, Nako, Tabo.

Reckong Peo – Bus Schedule

This is the HQ of Kinnaur Valley. This bus stand is commonly known as the most beautiful bus stand of India. Various HRTC buses are operated from Reckong Peo to many parts of Spiti Valley. Even the local buses in Kaza which cover the small rural areas belong to the Reckong Peo depot. 

Very few direct buses are available between Shimla to Chitkul or Kalpa. So it’s recommended to reach Reckong Peo first as buses are easily available from here.

Peo to Kalpa

Apart from HRTC buses, even local shared jeeps and vehicles are available frequently. Just enquire outside the bus stand. Even buses towards Roghi also take you to Kalpa. (Kalpa Travel Guide and My Experience)

Peo to Chitkul

There are 2 direct HRTC and a private bus available.

Reckong Peo – Chitkul (9:30 AM)    ( This bus actually goes to Kalpa from Reckong Peo in the morning at 8 and then reaches Kalpa at 8:30. Returns at the same time and comes to Reckong Peo then departs to Chitkul. So if you’re planning from Kalpa to Chitkul this is the best bus. But remember this isn’t a direct bus, you have to take tickets separately.)

Reckong Peo – Chitkul (12:00 PM)

Reckong Peo – Rakchham (4:00 PM) (Rakchham is 13 km from Chitkul and this doesn’t go to Chitkul )

There is also a private bus run by Chitkul local drivers which departs from Reckong Peo at 2:30 PM.

Peo to Sangla and Rakchham

All the buses towards Chitkul and Rakchham go via Sangla

Peo – Rakchham (4:00 PM)  (Karchham – Sangla – Rakchham)

Rakchham – Peo (5:00 AM)

Peo to Kaza

Reckong Peo – Kaza (5:30 AM)  

Shimla to Kaza bus after night halt departs early morning. Reaches Kaza by evening via Pooh, Nako, Tabo.

Rampur – Kaza (9:30 AM) 

Both the buses usually operate everyday, but if the passengers are less, then only one bus departs from Reckong Peo, which is usually this one. This was operating as Rampur-Tabo before, but now extended till Kaza. Make sure you check the proper timings before planning.

Hamirpur – Kaza  (Not sure of this service, yet mentioned in the timetable)

Reckong Peo – Sumdo (12:30 PM) Last bus towards Nako. This doesn’t go to Tabo, Kaza.

Chitkul – Bus Schedule

Chitkul – Peo

The private bus run by the local driver departs at 6 in the morning everyday to Reckong Peo. 

Also a HRTC bus departs from Rakchham at 5:30 in the morning, which is 13 km from Chitkul.

Chitkul -Reckong Peo (1:30 PM)

Chitkul -Reckong Peo  (3:30 PM)

Chitkul – Rampur/Shimla

Chitkul – Mandi (10 AM) (This bus doesn’t go to Reckong Peo. There is a diversion on Shimla-Reckong Peo Highway from Karchham, which leads to Sangla, Chitkul. For someone planning to Rampur or Shimla directly from Chitkul/Sangla can take this bus. If you wish to reach Peo, then get down at Karchham and take another bus to Peo)

Chitkul to Kaza

If someone’s planning to reach Kaza directly from Chitkul, then they can take the morning private bus to Reckong Peo and tell the driver that you wish to go to Kaza. He will drop you at the entrance of Reckong Peo and you can easily catch the Rampur-Kaza bus which goes via Sumdo, Nako, Tabo and reaches Kaza by evening. However one can reach Reckong Peo anytime and catch the early morning bus anytime.

Sangla – Bus Schedule

All the above buses from Chitkul/ Rakchham towards Peo go via Sangla Valley. They take almost 1 to 1.5 hours to reach Sangla after departing from Chitkul.

Nako and Tabo Bus Schedule

All the buses between Kaza and Reckong Peo travel via Nako and Tabo. There are no such specific service except Reckong Peo-Sumdo(to Nako) and Kaza-Chango.

Kaza

Kaza to Manali HRTC

Kaza – Manali – Kullu (5:30 AM)  A seasonal service that runs only if the road conditions are favorable usually from June to October. We traveled on the last week of October and this bus was already closed. This is the only bus in this route.

Kaza to Manali Private Vehicles

The road from Kaza to Manali is near to hell. After Losar until Chatru for 80kms, the road condition is extremely bad. Spiti Taxi Union operates Sumo, Tempo Traveler based on number of travelers that too only till the road is opened as its closed in winters. We paid 1200 per person for a Sumo.

This route is closed more than 5-6 months of the year, so most tourists come and go by Kinnaur side itself. Also you gain altitude very quickly especially when you reach Kunzum Pass, 15300 ft which is the highest point of Spiti Valley, so its good to reach by Kinnaur side as you gain altitude quite slowly.

Spiti Taxi Union (Kaza) – 7018815680 (They also operate local sightseeing vehicles)

Chandratal Lake

There is a diversion from Batal, near Chacha Chachi ka dhaba to Chandratal Lake. There isn’t any public transport to reach there. Even taxis operate only if weather is good as there is dense snowfall and extreme cold. One can reach Batal by any bus or vehicle heading towards Manali from Kaza.

Kaza to Shimla

Kaza – Reckong Peo – Shimla (6:00 AM)

This service runs round the year and would be the only option to reach outside world for people of Kaza during winters as Manali road is closed. Reaches Reckong Peo in the evening and doesn’t halt there but reaches Shimla by next day morning.

Kaza Local Buses

There are so many local buses to almost all the nearby villages of Spiti Valley. Majority depart in the evening halt at night and return at night. These travel approximately 15-20kms only. Mostly people hire rental bikes and taxis to roam around Kaza. Some cases they stay in the village at night and return in these buses.

Conclusion

These are the HRTC and a few private buses in the Spiti and Kinnaur Valley. Please make sure you re-verify the timings and also the current status of the service. I don’t remember the exact bus fares, but it’s almost 2 times the distance traveled approximately in these areas. 

This is all about the bus service in Spiti Valley. It is based on my visit in October 2023. I will add the detailed guide to each and every place of Spiti Valley also my trip plan along with budget. Comment below if you wish to update the schedule or you wish to know more details about the bus service in Kinnaur and Spiti Valley.

Also Read

My Experience in Kalpa

Spiti – The Magical Valley with Breathtaking Landscapes

Myths and Realities of Spiti Valley

Why Spiti should be your next destination along with Ladakh

Kalpa Travel Guide